Georges Vernay Condrieu "Terraces de l'Empire" 2006

The great white wines crafted from Viognier have their origins in the northern Rhône and in particular the appellation Condrieu. Wines from the incredibly steep, terraced vineyards of this region are the reward for back-breaking labour. It is impossible to mechanise here.

Condrieu is characterised by apricot and white peach aromas and flavours. The textural weight varies from the more refined, elegant, minerally style to the full blown, opulent, exotic styles. The wines of Vernay are definitely in the former camp.

The Condrieu appellation virtually owes its survival to the dogged determination of Georges Vernay who from the late 1940s was its most ardent defender. At that time, Condrieu was about to sink into oblivion. Back then, he was producing from only 1.5 hectares of Viognier. Today the Vernay estate includes 7 hectares in Condrieu, plus 3 hectares of Côte Rôtie, 1.5 hectares of Saint Joseph and 5 hectares above the Côte growing Syrah and Viognier. Georges and his wife passed control in 1997 to their daughter Christine and her husband Paul (who runs the business side of things).

Three cuvees are produced. In order of price and prestige these are: “Coteau de Vernon”, “Les Chaillées de l’Enfer” and “Les Terraces de l’Empire”.

The Vernay family do not use chemical herbicides or pesticides. Contrary to the expressed view of Robert Parker that these wines must be drunk within 2-3 years, the Vernay family state that they should be “tasted over the next 3-10 years” for the Coteau de Vernon and “5-10 years” for Les Chaillées de l’Enfer. The Les Terraces de l’Empire is for more immediate consumption, but it too will age for several years, depending upon the nature of the vintage.

Les Terraces de Empire 2006 is the real deal. 100% Viognier (as all Vernay wines are) from a steep, south east facing site. The soil is very granitic and the average vine age 25 years.